| 1. |
Q. My local bodyshop
quoted me almost $3,000 to paint my car. Why so much?
A. There are a lot
of hidden costs that the general customer doesn't see. Quality refinishing
is a very labor-intensive process that requires a skilled technician.
Good technicians are very hard to find and shops have to pay them
well to keep them from moving on to another shop (which is very
common). So a significant portion is labor costs. Secondly, paint
products are expensive. They can easily run into the hundreds for
a complete paint job. Most shops that do quality work use only premium
products. They won't use cheap paints or skimp on preparation work
because it can quickly ruin their reputation. Extra work like dent
and rust repair and any replacement panels or trim add to the cost.
Finally, the shop must pay for it's huge electricity bill and expensive
tools like a spray booth and frame machine. And, if they're lucky,
they might have a little left over to buy some groceries. It's a
very competitive business and profits are usually slim.
|
| 2. |
Q. How
can Maaco and those other shops do a paint job so cheap?
A. They have add-ons
and upgrades which generally increase the cost. In addition, shortcuts
are taken during the preparation stage and cheaper paints are used.
They often hire lower-wage (i.e.. less skilled) workers. All of which
is why some low-priced paint chains have sketchy reputations. You
get what you pay for. Many of these chains can and do put out good
work, albeit at a higher price. |
| 3. |
Q. Would
I be better off doing the bodywork myself and taking my vehicle to
a place like Maaco or another bodyshop to get painted?
A. That's an option
that many have taken. Some high-production shops put out a lot of
work and their painters become quite skilled. Many privately owned
shops however won't paint a vehicle they didn't prep because the general
public doesn't know how to properly prep a car for paint and if there
are paint problems or the paint falls off down the road, the customer
invariably blames the shop and they get a bad reputation. But if your
prep is good, and you can find a shop to apply quality paint for a
reasonable price, you can do alright. |
| 4. |
Q. My
vehicle was badly damaged, how do I know I can safely fix it?
A. If you have to ask
the question, you probably can't. I've said it before, start with
small, simple projects and work up. Trying to repair a badly damaged
vehicle without the proper skills can yield a dangerous vehicle and
potential disaster. Know when you're over your head and seek professional
guidance on tough projects. If you get to know people at your local
bodyshop most technicians are more than willing to help someone who
shows genuine willingness to learn the craft. After all, they were
likely in the same boat at one time. |
| 5. |
Q. What
are the basic auto refinishing steps?
A. Of course this varies
from project to project, but the basic steps of a typical dent repair
would involve straightening the dent so a minimum amount of filler
is needed, grind away paint and apply plastic filler as necessary.
Then sand down the filler until the desired contour is reached. Usually
a second or even a third application of filler is needed to make a
good repair. Then, apply the primer, sand the primer smooth progressing
to finer grit sandpapers, mask off the area to be repainted, apply
sealer and then paint. |
| 6. |
Q. What
are some tips to do good bodywork?
A. Do the best rust
or dent repair you can before ever adding any filler. Never apply
filler over paint or rust. Roughen the metal surface with 36 grit
sandpaper. Don't apply filler much thicker than 1/8" -- use the
"less is more" strategy. Sand filler using a long, 17"
sanding board. Apply multiple coats to fill pinholes if necessary.
Finish sanding with 80 grit and smooth out with even finer sandpaper
such as 120 or 220 grit. Prime with a high-build epoxy primer, apply
a guide coat and block-sand it after it has properly cured. Using
a guide coat and block-sanding is how the pros produce razor-straight
bodywork. |
| 7. |
Q. Is
plastic filler going to crack?
A. Not likely if it
was used as intended and applied properly. If plastic filler is applied
on top of paint, over holes or laid on too thick there's a good chance
that it may crack. Plastic filler is meant to fill small surface imperfections,
not fill deep cavities or holes. Body filler also absorbs water like
a sponge. If it get wet, it holds water and can rust the metal beneath
it and loose it's adhesion and crack and fall off. Or if the water
freezes it'll also crack. |
| 8. |
Q. Should
I use lead in my dent repair?
A. No. Lead was used
in a time when plastic filler didn't exist. It was the only product
available for dent repair. Polyester fillers have come a long way
and are so good, there's no reason to use lead. Plus, there's the
obvious health hazards of working with lead. However, if you're doing
a down-to-the-bolt restoration on a prewar cruiser you could consider
it. But very few restoration shops even use lead these days on classic
car restorations. |
| 9. |
Q. Are
all plastic fillers the same?
A. No. There are are
several grades of fillers ranging from low to high quality. Low quality
filler sold at discount stores do not compare favorably to higher
quality fillers like a bodyshop would use. They contain resins that
allow it to adhere to galvanized metal and aluminum and resist pinholing
and staining. Also they become tack-free and are easier to sand. Higher
quality fillers are usually not significantly more expensive. "Rage"
by Evercoat or, Marson Golden Xtra or Platinum are among the highest
quality fillers and worth the extra money for quality work. |
| 10. |
Q. What
is tack-free filler?
A. They are plastic
fillers that become dry to the touch quicker than standard filler.
The advantage is that the filler can be 'worked' while somewhat soft
without loading the paper up. It saves paper and the amount of effort
to sand the filler down. |
| 11. |
Q. Why
do I need to sand the filler down after I put it on?
A. Because the object
or performing bodywork is to produce a surface that in the end matches
that of the original, and it's impossible to apply the filler in such
a manor. So, typically, more filler is applied than needed and allowed
to set up. Afterwards, the excess is carefully sanded down leaving
behind whatever is necessary to fill any low spots in the metal (like
shallow dings or small hammer dents). |
| 12. |
Q. What
is the difference between Bondo and plastic filler |
A. Bondo is the name
of the company that invented plastic filler and the world's largest
producer of it. It's become a generic name for plastic filler. They
produce a range of fillers under a variety of brand names which are
sold in discount stores and auto paint stores as well. |
| 13. |
Q. What
is the difference between plastic filler and glazing putty?
A. Glazing putty is
thinner and creamier. It often comes in a can and uses a hardener
to set up just like regular body filler. It's designed for filling
smaller dings, crevices and sandscratches. It is very resistant to
pinholing. It's often used as a second or third coat over bodyfiller
to fill pinholes or sand scratches or other imperfections in the regular
body filler. It can be sanded with finer paper and leaves behind a
nice smooth surface after sanding. |
| 14. |
Q. What
is the difference between glazing putty and spot putty in a tube?
A. They both work well
for filling scratches but two-component glazing putty (uses a hardener
to setup) doesn't shrink and has many of the same properties as regular
plastic filler. The traditional glazing putty that comes in a tube,
like a giant tube of toothpaste is usually a laquer-based product
that has several downfalls. Because it hardens by evaporation it is
prone to shrinkage. It must be applied in only thin coats and must
fully dry before final sanding or coating with primer. If used improperly
and shrinkage results down the road, you'll see every sandpaper scratch
and rock chip you covered up with it. It's seldom used in shops these
days but it has it's time and place too. |
| 15. |
Q. What
is the difference between plastic filler and fiberglass?
A. Fiberglass uses
a different resin and has thin glass strands in it which, when hard
gives it great strength and durability. It's a good product to use
where increases strength is required and for filling holes. It's also
waterproof. |
| 16. |
Q. What
is fiberglass gel?
A. A resin that can
be hardened with a hardener. It doesn't contain any fiberglass strands.
Sheets of woven fiberglass can be soaked with the mixed resin and
hardener and layered to make very durable repairs on fiberglass panels.
|
| 17. |
Q. Should
I put fiberglass over rust holes?
A. If the hole is properly
treated and all rust removed it can make a long-lasting repair. Best
results on outer panels is to weld new metal in the hole, but in some
cases, repairing with fiberglass is a viable option. The larger the
hole that is fiberglassed up, the less durable and shorter-lived the
repair generally is. |
| 18. |
Q. Can
I apply plastic filler over paint?
A. It's not a recommended
practice. The best results are achieve by applying body filler over
bare steel or fiberglass which has been sanded with rough sandpaper
(app. 36-40 grit). The rough scratches give the filler something to
"bite" to. Steel is also porous and helps provide better
adhesion. That said, however, there are times such as filling shallow
dings, where applying filler over paint can be a good option. The
area to be filled must be thoroughly sanded down with at least 80
grit sandpaper to provide some scratches to the filler to adhere to.
|
| 19. |
Q. What
causes rust?
A. Rust if the result
of a natural chemical reaction between steel and air. It's accelerated
by increased moisture and corrosive agents like road salt and exposure
to salty sea water. If covered with paint the metal surface is protected
from oxygen and moisture - it won't rust. Rock chips, dents, scrapes
or anything that breaks the paint's surface can allow oxidation to
continue. If left unchecked, it can become so severe that the iron
is actually all 'eaten' away in a particular spot producing a rust
hole. |
| 20. |
Q. My
vehicle has some rust holes, how can I fix them?
A. The most effective
way to make a lasting repair is to cut away the rust around the hole
and weld new metal in it's place. Another way is to fill with fiberglass.
Then, seal the backside so moisture doesn't creep into the seam where
the repair was made. Using steel can make a permanent repair and will
last much longer than using fiberglass to fill the hole. Fiberglass
has different expansion/contraction rates and won't adhere as tightly
as welded metal will. It will eventually crack and fall out. An improperly
repair hole may begin to bulge after only a week, while a well repaired
fiberglass patch may last years. |
| 21. |
Q. What about that
chemical stuff that is supposed to neutralize rust?
A. Although widely
touted among the consumer market as a panacea to all rust's ills,
you'd be hard-pressed to find a competent body shop that uses it.
It leaves behind a rough textured surface that isn't a good base
for filler or primer or paint to adhere to. The only way to do effective
rust repair is to remove all traces of rust. The most common methods
are by grinding it away or sandblasting, then covering with a rust-inhibiting
primer.
|
| 22. |
Q. How
does sandblasting work?
A. Compressed air forces
silica sand out of the sandblaster at high speeds. Silica sand is
screened to a certain size to flow through a hose and a ceramic nozzle.
The sand erodes away paint, rust, etc. There are a couple of different
styles of sandblasters. A pressure blaster forces the sand out of
hose connected to a pressurized tank of sand. A siphon-type blaster
draws sand out via a suction process. Smaller gravity feed blasters
the sand falls into the air stream. A pressure blaster is the most
aggressive. Care must be taken when sandblasting rust to avoid sheet
metal warpage. Sandblasting flat body panels can cause severe warpage
as the sand "peens" the metal and also heats it up. Siphon
and gravity-feed type blaster work better for small rust spots on
sheet metal. |
| 23. |
Q. Can
I sandblast my whole vehicle?
A. You can sandblast
around wheel wells and door/trunk jams, but not the flat sheet metal.
It'll almost surely warp the sheet metal and you'll never be able
to get it straight again. Sandblasting works great for small spots
(going slowly and using care), and for jams, frames, wheel wells,
etc. |
| 24. |
Q. What
is plastic media blasting?
A. It's a blasting
process similar to sandblasting but rather than using silica sand,
poly abrasive particles are used. It will remove paint, but unlike
sand, it won't harm delicate surfaces like sheet metal, glass, fiberglass
and plastic and rubber. Can be used in a blasting cabinet or for whole-car
blasting by professional blasting companies. |
| 25. |
Q. What
is a patch panel and how do I install one?
A. A pre-formed panel
made to fit over or replace a portion of a fender, door or other panel.
Generally an aftermarket panel made to replace commonly rusted areas
like around rear wheel wells, lower portion of doors or front fenders
and floor pans. Allows a bodyshop or restorer to cut away rust and
replace with new metal that has original contours. Usually cheaper
and easier than purchasing and installing a completely new panel. |
| 26. |
Q. Where
would I buy a patch panel for my vehicle?
A. They're available
from most automotive paint and body suppliers and several online,
catalog and chain store companies such as J.C.
Whitney, Raybuck, Keystone,
and Browns, to name a
few. |
| 27. |
Q.
Can I use pop rivets to hold a patch panel in place?
A.
You can, but they don't work very well and aren't recommended. They
almost always they vibrate loose and damage the surrounding bodywork
leading to rust. The best way is to weld them in place using a wire
feed welder. |
| 28. |
Q. Wouldn't
it be better to use galvanized metal to patch holes?
A. It would if there
were companies out there producing them. But there aren't. Also, there
are some issues with some fillers and primers adhering to galvanized
metal. |
| 29. |
Q. How
do I weld in new metal?
A. Begin by grinding
the repair area down to bare metal and cut the damaged or rusted metal
completely away with a tin snips or air cutoff tool. Create a flange
at the edge of the newly cut metal so the new panel will fit flush
to the surface of the old metal. You can make a flange using a flanging
tool or even a pliers. In many cases you can skip the flange and lay
the new metal flat on top of the edge of the old metal. But for outer
panels, a flange works best. Then, cut the patch panel to fit the
repair leaving about 1/2" extra to fit into the flange or overlap
the existing metal. Drill some 1/4" holes near the edge of the
new metal and grind away any burrs and make sure new panel is flat
and fits nicely to the old metal and clamp or screw in place. You'll
use the holes to weld the existing metal to the hole, essentially
filling up the hole with weld -- like a spot weld. Lay tack welds
here and there at the edge of the patch allowing time for cool-down
and taking care not to build up too much heat in any one area (which
will warp the sheet metal). You can weld the metal completely or use
tack welds to hold it in place depending on the repair. Grind down
welds and perform bodywork. Be sure to thoroughly cover the back seam
of the repair with caulk or seam sealer so no moisture gets into the
seam from the rear. |
| 30. |
Q. How much is
a new welder and what would you recommend?
A. A new wire feed
welder can range anywhere from $150 on the low end to $1,500 for
a top quality unit. At the low end, you'd get a foreign-made welder
that would have relatively low amperage and duty-cycle, and use
flux-core wire only. Most have a max capacity of 3/16" thick
steel. They can be used effectively for sheet metal repair. For
around $500 you can get a 135 amp name brand welder (Lincoln
& Miller are very good
quality) that can weld using flux-core wire or solid wire and an
inert gas such as CO2 or a CO2/Argon mix. Using shielding gas rather
than flux-core wire will produce nicer, cleaner welds with less
spatter and cleanup. Most 135amp welders can weld up to 1/4"
thick mild steel. Moving up in price, you basically get more powerful
welders having greater amperage and higher duty-cycle that can weld
thicker metals.
Which welder you choose depends upon
your budget and amount of work you plan to do. For very occasional
work mostly on sheet metal and thin gauge metal, the low-priced
welders will do good sheet metal work. For general maintenance and
more regular bodywork, a 135 amp Miller or Lincoln welder is a very
good choice. They have smooth arc characteristics for nice sheet
metal work, yet can weld mild steel up to about 1/4" using
regular 115V current. Plus, parts availability is great and resale
value is superb. One of the 135 amp welders would be my personal
recommendation for a home hobbiest. Welders with greater capacity
typically run off 220V current and may or may not be able to weld
thin gauge sheet metal as well as a smaller unit. But they may be
able to weld aluminum better and even operate a spool-gun (great
for aluminum repair).
|
| 31. |
Q. Will
the new metal eventually rust out?
A. All metal will eventually
rust out. But if the repair was done properly and sealed well from
the rear of the repair, and undercoated, it should last as long or
even longer than the original panel. |
| 32. |
Q. What
is seam sealer?
A. It's an autobody
product similar to household caulk but much more durable. It adheres
well to most surfaces and is paintable. It's not recommended to use
household caulk especially those that contain silicon on repairs.
Straight latex caulk, although not as durable, can be used in a pinch.
Paint adheres to it better. But for best results, head to your paint
and autobody store and get some seam sealer. 3M
makes a very good seam sealer. |
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