FAQ's - Getting Started - Pg. 1
|
| 1. |
Q. Can I really
paint my own car?
A. Sure, why not?
People do it all the time in their own garages with great results.
Doing auto body and paint work is a genuine craft not unlike woodworking.
It requires a set of skills which are acquired through experience
and training. Experience comes from practicing. Training can be
formal or self-taught. Most autobody technicians and shop owners
I've ever known learned it on their own. They developed great skill
over time and augmented it with knowledge from reading manuals and
talking to others. A lot of information is available online and
in books. In addition, almost every local technical school has courses
on the subject. But you don't need special schooling. You can learn
the skills on your own. It just takes patience and hard work just
like anything else. It's best to start small. Learn in baby steps.
Don't bite off more than you can chew and become frustrated. Not
all people enjoy doing paint and bodywork. If you're the kind of
person who doesn't like a lot of noise, getting covered with dust
once in a while, finicky work, and cuts on your fingers now and
then, you might not enjoy it. But once learned, it can be a fun
and relaxing hobby that teaches valuable skills which can be used
in other areas of daily life. As a profession, it can also pay well.
|
| 2. |
Q. What
skills do I need to do paint work?
A. Just as with woodworking
or any hobby or profession, doing body and paint work requires it's
own special set of skills. They are acquired over time. Patience,
although not a skill, is very important as well as the ability to
"visualize" how a vehicle or damaged fender 'will' appear
beforehand. Persistence is another personality trait I've noticed
among good autobody technicians. Often, the same area of bodywork
may require several attempts to get it 'just right'. The technicians
that do the best work seem to be very finicky. Mechanical skills are
also important since often one must figure out how to disassemble
and reassemble parts of an unfamiliar vehicle without a manual. Those,
again, are acquired traits. They come with experience. The more projects
you do, the more you learn. That's why it's so important to start
with small jobs and work up. |
| 3. |
Q. What are the
basic tools I need to do good work?
A. Many technicians
and hobbyists started out with as little as a hammer, common hand
tools and a lot of determination. It doesn't take much to do the
basics. However, to actually paint your vehicle yourself, you'll
at least need a capable air compressor and a spray gun. A DA sander
is a helpful tool to have. It's the most common tool used by those
doing body and paint work and a real time and work saver. As your
experience and appreciation of the craft increases, you'll want
to fill your tool chest with more hand and air tools such as a cutoff
tool, angle grinder, air file sander to name a few. Those tools
don't guarantee good work, they just decrease the amount of effort
it takes to perform some tasks. A body technician's skills are still
the most important.
|
| 4. |
Q. Is
it worth it to buy all these tools and supplies to fix or paint my
car?
A.
If you just want to repair one dent or paint one fender, the answer
is probably not. But if you've enjoyed doing a few small repairs and
would like to learn more and pick it up as a hobby or perhaps a future
profession, or restore a beloved car, then absolutely, buying a few
key tools is a worthwhile investment. Once you've acquired the necessary
tools and skills, you can perform cosmetic repairs on any vehicle
anytime you wish. |
| 5. |
Q. Why can't I
just use spray-can paint?
A. You can. For some
repairs, particularly those down low or in inconspicuous areas,
spray-can paint can be used effectively for quick repairs. However,
spray-can paints do not come even close to comparing to the quality
of professional automotive paints. They don't have the shine nor
durability. Many beginners can't tell the difference between spray-can
paint repairs and pro-quality work. But as you learn you will. In
the end it all comes down to taste, cost and how you want the final
repair to appear.
|
| 6. |
Q. Is
there really a difference between auto paint and spray can paint/primer?
A. Yes. It's like night
and day. Spray can primer is thin and doesn't build very thick. In
addition, it dries by evaporation and often shrinks whereas modern
automotive primers cure by chemical reaction and don't shrink. Worst
of all, spray-can primer isn't compatible with many automotive paints.
But they do have their place, particularly for small repairs in inconspicuous
areas. But for quality, long lasting repairs, stick with automotive-grade
products. |
| 7. |
Q. Who
are some of the major auto paint companies?
A. In no particular
order: DuPont, PPG, Sikkens, Sherwin-Williams and BASF. Each produces
high quality products. Most have an economy line of paint as well
as premier quality products. More paint info on FAQ page 4. There
are numerous lesser known companies who also produce quality auto
pait products, but those listed above are the major players. |
| 8. |
Q. Where
can I buy autobody products and real car paint?
A. Auto paint and supply
stores. Also, some auto parts stores. Check your phone book, there's
sure to be a place near you. |
| 9. |
Q. Paint
products are expensive, can I just buy them from Walmart?
A. No. You won't find
automotive-grade paint in discount stores. It's not sold to the general
public. Auto paint contains toxic solvents and must be applied carefully.
You can buy spray-can paint that matches your vehicle's color at discount
and hardware stores, but for quality work, don't be tempted to buy
them, just because they're cheaper. Masking tape and sandpaper found
in discount stores will work ok on small jobs but are not up those
available at an auto paint store. |
| 10. |
Q. Are
there places online where I can buy supplies?
A. Yes. One place that
comes to mind is Auto Body
Toolmart. They sell autobody related tools and supplies to the
autobody industry. They also sell a line of paint and primers of which
I've never used. Other companies include: Tools
USA, AutobodyStore.com,
and HandsOnTool.com |
| 11. |
Q. Can
I get good results painting my car in my garage?
A.
Yes. I've seen many a good-looking
street rod, high-dollar Corvette and other expensive muscle cars refinished
by enthusiasts in their own garage. The results are often better than
work turned out by well-equipped body shops. Some of the best paint
jobs I've seen have even sprayed outdoors! If you take precautions
to reduce dust, and wait until the conditions are right, a home garage
can make a great paint area. |
| 12. |
Q. Is
it legal to pant in my home garage?
A. In most places it
is. However, in some residential areas, particularly in densely populated
regions it might not be. Contact your local authorities and fire department
to verify. |
| 13. |
Q. Why
can't I paint with a brush?
A. If you want to create
a nice smooth surface that looks like the factory paint job the paint
needs to be applied uniformly and flow out properly. You can't do
it witha brush. A spray gun atomizes the paint into tiny droplets
that form a uniform paint thickness and flow out. In some cases where
small rust repairs are made and looks are less important than preventing
corrosion, applying paint with a brush actually makes sense -- there's
no unsightly overspray. But you won't find brushes at a body shop |
| 14. |
Q. What
about safety? Are the paint fumes really as bad as they say?
A. Besides the obvious
fire hazard, breathing paint fumes can be very dangerous and even
deadly. Inhaled fumes and paint mist accumulates in your body. They
aren't flushed out. So, over time, the damage can be accumulative.
In addition, many automotive paints and primers use a hardener. Paint
mist can harden in the lungs and the results can be disastrous. That's
why automotive paint is not sold to the general public. Don't screw
around. Take serious measures to protect your health. Read the safety
data sheets (MSDS) for all paint products. Now that I've scared you,
you can protect yourself by following the safety recommendations on
the safety data sheets. That usually means wearing a quality respirator
that meets specifications for the paint you are using. A SAS (Supplied
Air System) which provides fresh air is a worthwhile investment. Also,
paint fumes may lead to hearing loss. Protect yourself, you can't
put a price on good health. |
| 15. |
Q. How
can I protect myself from paint fumes?
A. As stated above,
read the paint and primer's safety sheets and get a quality air respirator
or supplied air system that complies with the recommendations. Make
sure there is adequate ventilation and you follow all other recommended
precautions. |
| 16. |
Q. What is a Supplied
Air System (SAS)?
A. A supplied air
system is a device that pumps fresh air to a painter from another
location. It usually consists of a mask that is connected by a hose
to portable pump which can be placed in a remote location where
paint fumes aren't present. Better SAS systems use a whole-head
hood which supplies fresh air to the entire head. Auto paint supply
shops sell a range of Supplied Air Systems. Don't try to make your
own fresh air system (particularly using air from your air compressor),
buy an approved system.
|
| 17. |
Q. Do
those low-price paint jobs I see advertised really last?
A. You get what you
pay for. Generally, the low price is quoted to attract customers and
add-ons and better quality paint is recommended afterwards which increases
the final price. Automotive paint of decent quality and all the supplies
needed to paint an entire car can run several hundred dollars. And
the prep work to produce a good quality job takes a good deal of time
and skill. Each shortcut taken reduces the quality of a paint job
(otherwise everyone would do it and it wouldn't be called a shortcut).
So, something has to give. That said, many of these organizations
do employ skilled people who are capable of producing quality work.
Typically such shops offer a range of paint packages and can guarantee
a quality paint job for a decent price. Many hobbyists choose to do
their own bodywork and prep work and take their vehicle to a high-production
shop and have them apply the paint. Since painters in these shops
paint all day long, they are often quite skilled. The company won't
give you a guarantee since they didn't do the prep work, but if your
prep work was good, you can get a nice job out of it and not have
to worry about all the factors involved in painting a vehicle. |
| 18. |
Q. What
size air compressor do I need to do paint work?
A. The more air you
have the better. But it really depends on the level of work you plan
to do. If you just want to make a few repairs to a fender/door and
other touchup work, a small 20 gallon compressor would suffice. But
it likely won't be able to keep up if you're painting an entire vehicle
and you may have to stop and let it catch up periodically (which can
result in paint problems). Remember, a compressor also needs a cool-down
period (Duty-cycle). If you plan to buy a new air compressor, buy
the largest one you can reasonably afford. I personally feel a 9-10
CFM @ 90 psi compressor is the smallest I would recommend for a home
hobbyist. |
| 19. |
Q. I'm thinking
of buying a new air compressor, any recommendations?
A. As stated above,
consider your needs and buy the largest compressor you can reasonably
afford. You don't want to be undersized down the road. CFM (Cubic
Feet per Minute) at 90 PSI is what counts. Remember, you loose pressure
and flow with each hose length. So, what you'll actually get at
the end of the hose will be less. If you don't plan to do much work
a 20 gallon compressor should do the trick. If you plan to learn
more about bodywork and make it a on/off hobby with intermittent
repairs and paint jobs, a 5-7 hp upright 60 gallon compressor with
around 10 CFM would make a nice rig. You could do complete paint
jobs with a compressor that size. The most ideal compressor for
someone who planned on restoring a few vehicles, use a sandblaster,
and air-hungry tools would be a true 5hp 80 gallon upright two-stage
compressor rated at around 16 CFM. With that, you 'd be able to
run a pressure sandblaster, do a lot of glass-beading, run two DA's
at a time. You wouldn't quickly run out of air or overwork the compressor.
Nor would you feel you had too much compressor either.
|
| 20. |
Q. What
is a moisture trap, and do I really need one?
A. It's a must-have
device for doing body and paint work that removes moisture from the
airline coming from the compressor. As a compressor operates, it produces
warm air which contains more moisture. As the air goes through the
air line and hose, it cools down and water droplets form. Water, oil
and dust gums up the veins in air tools and causes the tool to bog
down and leads to internal rust which dramatically shortens a tool's
life. During painting, moisture can result in water droplets in the
paint too (in which case the pant must be sanded down again and repainted).
Most moisture traps come coupled with a pressure regulator which is
also needed for adjusting air pressure. New compressors come with
instructions on how to plumb a moisture trap. |
| 21. |
Q. Can
I put my moisture trap on the end of my compressor?
A.
No. As stated above, air from the compressor becomes warm during use
and carries more moisture. At such close proximity to the compressor,
the warm air will pass straight through the moisture trap w/o removing
any moisture at all. It'll be totally useless and you'll still have
water problems. It must be positioned some 18-20 feet or more from
the compressor linked by steel or rigid copper pipe so the air has
a chance to cool down and release it's moisture before reaching the
trap. Most new air compressors come with proper moisture trap hookup
and plumbing instructions. |
| 22. |
Q. What
is a DA sander I keep reading/hearing about?
A. A DA, or Dual-Action
sander is the bodyman's best friend. It's the most often used air
tool in the refinishing process. It consists of a free-spinning pad
which the sandpaper mounts to that attaches off-center to the sander's
rotating shaft. The pad moves in an oscillating pattern but can spin
at random. The result is a sander that quickly sands paint yet is
gentle enough to produce a smooth feathered paint edge without gouging
the paint or metal. |
| 23. |
Q. Who
makes a good DA sander?
A. The Chicago Pneumatic
(CP-864) DA is probably the most common DA of all. There's hardly
a shop around that doesn't have one. It's a workhorse that lasts virtually
forever. There are many import copies of this style sander. Ingersoll
Rand and National Detroit make high-quality sanders too. My personal
favorite is the Hutchins model 4560. It has a protective finger guard
(no more monkey finger), noise muffler, quality pad and palm-style
valve system. It's ergonomically right-on, low noise and vibration.
You want to sand all day with it. |
| 24. |
Q. What
is a HVLP spray gun?
A. Stands for High
Volume Low Pressure and used to spray paint onto the paint surface.
Most HVLP spray guns are gravity feed (paint cup on top). They have
taken the industry by storm. They have a much higher paint transfer
efficiency rate than traditional spray guns of just 10 years ago.
They produce less overspray and have less paint "bounce-back"
so more paint goes onto the paint surface and less into the air --
basically less waste. With some modern paints costing upwards of $80
a pint, a HVLP spray gun can quickly save money. Some HVLP guns are
so efficient, they produce almost no overspray. Some super-efficient
guns like the Accu-Spray often require a separate air turbine. |
| 25. |
Q. Why
are gravity-feed spray guns so popular these days?
A. Because paints have
become very expensive and they put more paint onto the paint surface
and less into the air. Another advantage is with a gravity feed cup,
every bit of paint can be used up. With the older conventional guns,
there was almost always some paint that wouldn't get sprayed and had
to be thrown away. In addition to saving money on paint, efficient
HVLP guns also reduce VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) emissions.
Their use is mandated for bodyshops in many regions. |
| 26. |
Q. Does
HVLP really save paint?
A. Yes. I'll relate
a story: Some years ago I had to paint part of a medium-sized red
car in which the paint cost about $65 per pint. I was sure my conventional
spray gun would not allow me to properly spray the entire repair with
a only one pint of paint. I had recently been through a similar situation
with a previous project and was forced to buy extra paint on that
job. So, this time, rather than spend the $65 for an additional pint
of paint, I went out and put the money toward a new middle-of-the-road
HVLP gravity-feed spray gun from my local paint and body supply store.
I was able to apply three coats of paint to the whole side of the
car and part of the hood using the single pint of red with a dab left
over. I could have never done that with my older conventional gun.
In that one job, I saved $65! These days paint can be purchased in
even smaller quantities such as half and quarter pints which costs
less and is just enough for common fender and door repairs. Yes, a
HVLP gun can definitely save on material. |
| 27. |
Q. Who
are some spray gun manufacturers?
A. When it comes to
HVLP spray guns, SATA guns are considered tops. DeVilbiss, Binks and
Sharp also make high-quality HVLP spray guns. Accu-spray also makes
a wonderful high-efficiency HVLP spray gun. |
| 28. |
Q. What's
the best spray gun for me?
A. That's a judgment
call only you can make. It really comes down to the type of work you
want to do and how much you want to spend. If you're only doing occasional
paint work, an inexpensive import spray gun from companies like Harbor
Freight will work well and can give very good results. I've seen
some quality overall paint jobs from these inexpensive HVLP spray
guns. DeVilbiss Finishline spray guns are more middle of the road
guns and offer the use of a cleaver plastic liner (basically an internal
Zip-Loc bag) system that dramatically simplifies gun cleanup. For
top quality production work, a SATA gun can't be beat. But for a hobbiest,
you may not want to spend that much money on one. |
| 29. |
Q. Do
I need an expensive spray gun to get good results?
A. Generally no. Skill
is the most important factor, but you can't get a quality paint job
with a crappy gun either. For small and intermittent jobs, a cheapie
HVLP gun or even a conventional spray gun can yield good results and
makes good economical sense. For better atomization of clears and
other paints, a more expensive brand-name gun will generally give
you better results. |
| 30. |
Q. Do
I need expensive tools to do good paint work?
A. No. Good work is
a frame of mind and a matter of persistence and technique. A lot of
bodywork is done by hand anyway. One can start out with a pack of
sandpaper and general hand tools and let someone else do the painting.
As skill and interest pick up, increase your tool collection as needed.
Inexpensive import air tools perform well and last years with proper
care. They work well for the home hobbyist. You may want to spend
a little extra on some key tools like a DA sander that gets used a
lot and a spray gun. |
| 31. |
Q. Do
I need to paint in a spray booth to get a good job?
A. No. I've seen and
done many quality paint jobs in a standard garage and even outside.
Spray booths are nice because they guarantee uniform environmental
conditions every time. Plus, for production shops, they are required
to cut down on emissions. But with care and precautions a home garage
can be outfitted to a low-dust environment. In most locations, bodyshops
are required to have a spray booth. |
| 32. |
Q. What
are the advantages of using a paint booth?
A. They produce a uniform
painting environment every time. That means less chances of painter
error and contaminants in the paint. It translates into more consistent
paint work. They also generate airflow across the paint which helps
evaporate the thinners while sucking out the paint overspray. The
airborne paint in the overspray is captured in special filters which
reduces VOC that are released into the atmosphere. |
| 33. |
Q. Can
I paint outside?
A. Aside from local
legalities (which vary from region to region), good results can be
had outside. The one benefit is outstanding lighting. The downfalls
are: one can't spray in direct sunlight, it'll warm the surface and
inhibit proper flow. The weather can't be predicted either -- I've
seen rain suddenly break out when the last coat was going on, or wind
kicks up and blows dust into the paint. A falling leaf landing on
a freshly painted hood doesn't look good either. Neither do bugs,
hairy moths or ashes from the neighbors charcoal grill. But if conditions
are right, it can be done effectively. Works better for small repairs
rather than larger overall paint jobs. Make sure it's ok with the
neighbors. |
|
|
|
